Now that it is summertime in North America, it is important to stay on top of keeping the lawns green. Watering a lawn in the proper manner is one of the most misunderstood and most necessary steps in keeping up a healthy, attractive lawn. Most people water their lawn too long and sometimes not often enough.
Here are some awesome guidelines
to ensure a the most effective and efficient method to properly water your lawn. First of all soak your lawn only to the depth of the root zone and no further. Each time you water you should moisten the soil to a depth of 6-8 in. when watering bluegrass and 8-11 in. on other grasses. This will ensure that you wter only to the grass's active root zone. The length of time and amount of water it will take to moisten the root zone depend on soil type and the irrigation system. Sandy soils will be penetrated more quickly and more deeply than clay and other softer soils.
To determine the length of time required to moisten your lawn's root zone:
This is an awesome formula given by a well known University...Run the sprinklers for 15 minutes. Twenty-four hours later, dig a small hole in the ground or use a probe to determine how deeply the soil is moistened. You will use this information to determine how long to water each time. To calculate the number of minutes to water the lawn divide 120 by the depth of the moistened soil in inches. For example, if the water soaked in 4 in., figure 120/4 = 30 minutes. It would take an hour to soak in eight inches. If it soaked in 6 in., the lawn should be watered for 20 minutes (120/6 in. = 20 minutes). However, bluegrass has a shallower root system than other grasses; it needs to be soaked to a depth of only 6-8 in. (instead of 8-12 in). Take the second example above: In 15 minutes, water soaked in 6 in. You would need to water a bluegrass lawn for only 15 minutes instead of the 20 minutes calculated for other types of grass. Once the length of the watering period is established, use the same period each time you water, no matter what the season. If water starts to run off the lawn before the end of the watering period, turn the water off for one hour and let the water soak in; then turn the sprinklers back on and finish watering.
Runoff is sometimes caused by excess thatch. If thatch is more than 1/2 in. thick, the lawn should be dethatched. De thatch cool-season lawns (bluegrass or fescue) in early spring or late summer. De thatch bermudagrass lawns in late spring. Proper mowing, watering and fertilization can reduce the buildup of thatch. To reduce thatch buildup, avoid over watering the lawn.
When the lawn needs water the grass will take on a bluish or dull green color and the blades will begin to fold or roll. Footprints will remain visible after the lawn is walked on. Tree and shrub roots competing with the turf will require additional water. Once a month soak the soil very deep to encourage tree and shrub root development below the turf root zone. Leave the sprinklers on three times the normal time or use a soaker hose under the entire tree canopy. The best time of day to water is in the early morning. Less water evaporates if lawns are watered when temperatures are cool and winds are calm. These conditions occur most frequently in early morning. Late afternoon and evening watering also reduces evaporation losses if winds are calm, but tends to encourage disease because the grass stays moist all night. Many of the fungus diseases that affect grass require water droplets or high humidity to sporulate and infect the plants. Midday watering is more convenient for many people and does not harm the lawn. However, more water is lost to evaporation. In most situations sprinklers are the most effective way to water lawns. Flood irrigation can also be used on level lawns where a water source is available. Sprinkler spray patterns should overlap 80-100% depending on the type of sprinkler system that is installed. Follow the manufacturer's directions for proper sprinkler installation. A good system must provide even water distribution to all grassed areas. The water must be applied to only the grassed areas, not to walls, sidewalks, driveways or streets. Use the can test described above to gauge uniformity. Most sprinkler heads have a spring adjustment to control the flow of water. Sprinklers that water less than a full circle can be adjusted to direct water away from walls and paved areas. If some sprinkler heads have been replaced, it may be necessary to replace all of the sprinkler heads in order to achieve uniform application. Maybe this will assist you in watering your lawn.
Showing posts with label lawn and garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lawn and garden. Show all posts
Friday, June 25, 2010
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Garden Invasion - Prevention
I never really thought of weeds as being evil, but occasionally a plant finds its way into your garden and refuses to leave. It turns into a stubborn house guest, spreading its roots through every available patch of dirt, and paying no heed to existing plants in their quest for dominance. You'll spend an entire season pulling and possibly even spraying, but eventually you'll see them rearing their ugly heads, almost in defiance.
Ridding your garden of these invasive plants is not just a personal peeve; these pests can smother native plants that provide food and habitats for birds and insects. There are approximately 50,000 non-indigenous species in the United States that have created damage and losses totaling about $137 billion per year. This has become a genuine concern in the State of Oregon, so much so that The Oregon Zoo and the Three Rivers Land Conservancy are publicly campaigning to remove certain invasive plants.
The Oregon Zoo has pledged to remove 20 percent of six of the invasive plants on their property, with a goal of removing 90 percent within 10 years. The culprits they are focusing on include English Ivy, Himalayan blackberry, butterfly bush, traveler's clematis, Japanese knotweed and drooping sedge.
The Three Rivers Land Conservancy in conjunction with the West Willamette Restoration Partnership, local businesses, government organizations and 15 neighborhood associations is working to create a Backyard Habitat Certification Program. Their intention is to educate and provide incentives to homeowners to rid their yards of ivy, blackberry, knotweed and traveler's clematis, along with garlic mustard and periwinkle.
Part of their program will involve home visits, handouts, workshops and a three-part certification program that provides signs, gift certificates and event tickets. Incentives are increased based on the percentage of invasive plants removed by homeowners, and the amount of re-planting of native plants. Their goal is to remove ivy from trees in 300 acres and 90 percent of the six plants in 50 acres.
Although a labor intensive solution, the best fight against invasive plants is to pull them out, and keep on pulling until they stop coming up. They need sunlight to survive, the less they get, the harder it is to perpetuate.
Ridding your garden of these invasive plants is not just a personal peeve; these pests can smother native plants that provide food and habitats for birds and insects. There are approximately 50,000 non-indigenous species in the United States that have created damage and losses totaling about $137 billion per year. This has become a genuine concern in the State of Oregon, so much so that The Oregon Zoo and the Three Rivers Land Conservancy are publicly campaigning to remove certain invasive plants.
The Oregon Zoo has pledged to remove 20 percent of six of the invasive plants on their property, with a goal of removing 90 percent within 10 years. The culprits they are focusing on include English Ivy, Himalayan blackberry, butterfly bush, traveler's clematis, Japanese knotweed and drooping sedge.
The Three Rivers Land Conservancy in conjunction with the West Willamette Restoration Partnership, local businesses, government organizations and 15 neighborhood associations is working to create a Backyard Habitat Certification Program. Their intention is to educate and provide incentives to homeowners to rid their yards of ivy, blackberry, knotweed and traveler's clematis, along with garlic mustard and periwinkle.
Part of their program will involve home visits, handouts, workshops and a three-part certification program that provides signs, gift certificates and event tickets. Incentives are increased based on the percentage of invasive plants removed by homeowners, and the amount of re-planting of native plants. Their goal is to remove ivy from trees in 300 acres and 90 percent of the six plants in 50 acres.
Although a labor intensive solution, the best fight against invasive plants is to pull them out, and keep on pulling until they stop coming up. They need sunlight to survive, the less they get, the harder it is to perpetuate.
Friday, February 01, 2008
Moles, Voles, and Grubs
With Spring coming up, it's important to start preventetive measures for those pesky critters in your yard. Here are some ways to help get rid of Moles, Voles, and Grubs.
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Don't Let Moles, Voles and Grubs Ruin Your Yard
(ARA) – As surely as spring will soon arrive, so will the critters that drive you crazy -- moles and voles. Make this the year you send them packing before they can cause damage in your yard.
First, an attack plan for dealing with voles. They are herbivores that if left unchecked will attack flower bulbs and eat the roots from underneath garden plants. Stopping voles can be accomplished simply by placing a six-inch deep perimeter of sharp rocks around your garden or other plantings. They don’t have the clawing power to burrow through rocks, so if a barrier exists, voles will go elsewhere.
Dealing with moles, on the other hand, will take a lot more effort. Through the years, homeowners have tried everything from throwing balls of pre-chewed gum into mole tunnels to thrusting sharp pronged pitchforks into mole tunnels, to no avail.
Want to get rid of them once and for all? Try a two-pronged approach. First apply non-toxic Holy Moley, a granular product from St. Gabriel Organics, to your lawn with a fertilizer spreader to drive the moles away.
Since you don’t want to leave anything to chance, destroy their favorite food source too. Moles snack on earthworms, and other underground insects like beetle grubs, but they are attracted to grubs more then anything else.
A survey of mole problems by the University of Missouri found that moles consume up to 80 percent of their body weight each day. In the stomach of one mole, researchers found the remains of 187 grubs.
To eliminate the grubs in your yard, apply Milky Spore, also from St. Gabriel Laborato-ries, to your lawn. It is guaranteed to eliminate grubs quickly and efficiently, and once applied, will remain viable in the soil for ten years. The spores in the product will not kill beneficial insects such as earthworms and one application keeps working for many seasons, unaffected by freezing or pesticides.
Both Holy Moley and Milky Spore are pet approved by veterinarians and neither will af-fect wells, ponds or streams. For more information on Holy Moley and Milky Spore or to purchase, call St. Gabriel Organics at (800) 801-0061 or visit www.MilkySpore.com.
Courtesy of ARAcontent
-------------------
Don't Let Moles, Voles and Grubs Ruin Your Yard
(ARA) – As surely as spring will soon arrive, so will the critters that drive you crazy -- moles and voles. Make this the year you send them packing before they can cause damage in your yard.
First, an attack plan for dealing with voles. They are herbivores that if left unchecked will attack flower bulbs and eat the roots from underneath garden plants. Stopping voles can be accomplished simply by placing a six-inch deep perimeter of sharp rocks around your garden or other plantings. They don’t have the clawing power to burrow through rocks, so if a barrier exists, voles will go elsewhere.
Dealing with moles, on the other hand, will take a lot more effort. Through the years, homeowners have tried everything from throwing balls of pre-chewed gum into mole tunnels to thrusting sharp pronged pitchforks into mole tunnels, to no avail.
Want to get rid of them once and for all? Try a two-pronged approach. First apply non-toxic Holy Moley, a granular product from St. Gabriel Organics, to your lawn with a fertilizer spreader to drive the moles away.
Since you don’t want to leave anything to chance, destroy their favorite food source too. Moles snack on earthworms, and other underground insects like beetle grubs, but they are attracted to grubs more then anything else.
A survey of mole problems by the University of Missouri found that moles consume up to 80 percent of their body weight each day. In the stomach of one mole, researchers found the remains of 187 grubs.
To eliminate the grubs in your yard, apply Milky Spore, also from St. Gabriel Laborato-ries, to your lawn. It is guaranteed to eliminate grubs quickly and efficiently, and once applied, will remain viable in the soil for ten years. The spores in the product will not kill beneficial insects such as earthworms and one application keeps working for many seasons, unaffected by freezing or pesticides.
Both Holy Moley and Milky Spore are pet approved by veterinarians and neither will af-fect wells, ponds or streams. For more information on Holy Moley and Milky Spore or to purchase, call St. Gabriel Organics at (800) 801-0061 or visit www.MilkySpore.com.
Courtesy of ARAcontent
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Oxygen: A New Gardening Breakthrough?
In grade school we learn that Carbon Dioxide is essential for plants. Plants in turn give off oxygen we need to help breathe and clean the air. Now, information is coming forth where Oxygen itself can be beneficial to plants as well.
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A New Breakthrough in Gardening
New Research Proves Oxygen is Key to Increased Plant Flowering
(ARA) – Whether you have an extensive greenhouse or a small container garden in your home, you want your plants to do well. Common knowledge tells us that plants need water, sun and nutrients to flourish. But according to recent studies, surprisingly, there is another crucial element for successful gardening: oxygen.
Oxygen in a plant’s root system can significantly affect the overall health of the plant. Getting oxygen into the soil and to the roots not only helps improve the strength and size of a plant’s root system, but also it’s ability to absorb water and nutrients.
It’s one of those things most people have noticed, but not necessarily understood:
Golf course managers aerate turf grass sod and greens. Farmers cultivate a field to break up the crust that follows a heavy rain storm. All to allow root systems to flourish. Grass even looks greener after a thunderstorm because oxygen laden rain water stimulates root growth, bringing water and nutrients to above ground plant parts to aid in photosynthesis … and, it’s all related to oxygen as a necessary part of a successful gardening equation.
Now there’s a simple and innovative new way to put this knowledge to work in your house and garden. The Enki watering system. It’s a revolutionary new way to water your plants with extra oxygen that can produce vibrant results. This watering pitcher creates the extra oxygen a plant root system craves by super-oxygenating tap water. The pitcher plugs in and within seconds begins the oxygenation process that can be observed by the tiny air bubbles being produced in the water. In about five minutes the oxygen level of the water reaches up to 150 percent, far surpassing the oxygen levels in tap water or even that of rain water.
Tests conducted by a professor at the University of Minnesota’s Department of Horticulture reveal the system’s substantial benefits. Super oxygenated water helps to achieve earlier flowering with more vibrant colors, and increased numbers of flowers and vegetables. Measured results were produced in both vegetable and flower tests. The oxygenized water produced 28 percent more petunia flowers and 58 percent more peppers on average. Geraniums had 76 percent more flower weight on average and tomato plants yielded 22 percent more tomatoes. If you want to improve your gardening success and are looking for a way to ensure that your plants, indoor or out, will thrive, super-oxygenated water is a whole new solution you should try.
The Enki idea of super-oxygenating water just may be an idea whose time has really come. The product is eco-friendly. It only adds oxygen to the water during the short 5 minutes it takes for the water reach a level of 150 percent oxygen. With today’s consumer movement toward environmentally friendly, or “green” products, Enki would appear to be a product on the cutting edge of improved and responsible gardening ideas.
Duane Hastad can vouch for the value of oxygenized water. He is owner of three nurseries, including Heather Nursery in Montevideo, Minn. After working with plants for 31 years, he has developed a vast knowledge of horticulture. At a horticulture expo earlier this year, he began talking with the founders of Ovation Science, the makers of Enki, and it got him thinking.
“I thought what are they doing?” comments Hastad as he noticed them at the expo. “It was a neat idea, and after talking with them for a while, I knew it could work, but I wondered what results I could see.”
Hastad utilized the oxygenation watering system in his greenhouse and almost immediately got results. “We started tomato plants from seeds and they germinated in six days, twice as fast as seedlings watered with city water, and they also came up straighter and had better root systems.”
Hastad says that he now has better plant products to sell. He also began to carry the Enki watering pitcher in his store and has had very positive feedback from his customers who use it. “If it doesn’t work, I am going to hear about it,” adds Hastad. “And, people are seeing the benefits.”
For more information about how to get incredible results with your plants and the Enki plant-watering system, visit www.myenki.com.
Courtesy of ARAcontent
------------------
A New Breakthrough in Gardening
New Research Proves Oxygen is Key to Increased Plant Flowering
(ARA) – Whether you have an extensive greenhouse or a small container garden in your home, you want your plants to do well. Common knowledge tells us that plants need water, sun and nutrients to flourish. But according to recent studies, surprisingly, there is another crucial element for successful gardening: oxygen.
Oxygen in a plant’s root system can significantly affect the overall health of the plant. Getting oxygen into the soil and to the roots not only helps improve the strength and size of a plant’s root system, but also it’s ability to absorb water and nutrients.
It’s one of those things most people have noticed, but not necessarily understood:
Golf course managers aerate turf grass sod and greens. Farmers cultivate a field to break up the crust that follows a heavy rain storm. All to allow root systems to flourish. Grass even looks greener after a thunderstorm because oxygen laden rain water stimulates root growth, bringing water and nutrients to above ground plant parts to aid in photosynthesis … and, it’s all related to oxygen as a necessary part of a successful gardening equation.
Now there’s a simple and innovative new way to put this knowledge to work in your house and garden. The Enki watering system. It’s a revolutionary new way to water your plants with extra oxygen that can produce vibrant results. This watering pitcher creates the extra oxygen a plant root system craves by super-oxygenating tap water. The pitcher plugs in and within seconds begins the oxygenation process that can be observed by the tiny air bubbles being produced in the water. In about five minutes the oxygen level of the water reaches up to 150 percent, far surpassing the oxygen levels in tap water or even that of rain water.
Tests conducted by a professor at the University of Minnesota’s Department of Horticulture reveal the system’s substantial benefits. Super oxygenated water helps to achieve earlier flowering with more vibrant colors, and increased numbers of flowers and vegetables. Measured results were produced in both vegetable and flower tests. The oxygenized water produced 28 percent more petunia flowers and 58 percent more peppers on average. Geraniums had 76 percent more flower weight on average and tomato plants yielded 22 percent more tomatoes. If you want to improve your gardening success and are looking for a way to ensure that your plants, indoor or out, will thrive, super-oxygenated water is a whole new solution you should try.
The Enki idea of super-oxygenating water just may be an idea whose time has really come. The product is eco-friendly. It only adds oxygen to the water during the short 5 minutes it takes for the water reach a level of 150 percent oxygen. With today’s consumer movement toward environmentally friendly, or “green” products, Enki would appear to be a product on the cutting edge of improved and responsible gardening ideas.
Duane Hastad can vouch for the value of oxygenized water. He is owner of three nurseries, including Heather Nursery in Montevideo, Minn. After working with plants for 31 years, he has developed a vast knowledge of horticulture. At a horticulture expo earlier this year, he began talking with the founders of Ovation Science, the makers of Enki, and it got him thinking.
“I thought what are they doing?” comments Hastad as he noticed them at the expo. “It was a neat idea, and after talking with them for a while, I knew it could work, but I wondered what results I could see.”
Hastad utilized the oxygenation watering system in his greenhouse and almost immediately got results. “We started tomato plants from seeds and they germinated in six days, twice as fast as seedlings watered with city water, and they also came up straighter and had better root systems.”
Hastad says that he now has better plant products to sell. He also began to carry the Enki watering pitcher in his store and has had very positive feedback from his customers who use it. “If it doesn’t work, I am going to hear about it,” adds Hastad. “And, people are seeing the benefits.”
For more information about how to get incredible results with your plants and the Enki plant-watering system, visit www.myenki.com.
Courtesy of ARAcontent
Tuesday, July 24, 2007
Statues That Add To A Garden
One of the most important parts of a garden decoration are statues. Whether they are miniature or life sized, they make a interesting addition to any outdoor garden. ARA has some tips for selecting the right statue for your outdoor abode.
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Simple Secrets for Selecting Outdoor Statuary
(ARA) - You’re not alone if you find that the piece of garden statuary that looked so elegant at the garden center just doesn’t seem to fit your garden back home.
A common mistake gardeners make when buying a piece of garden statuary is one of size and quantity, according to Peter C. Cilio, creative director of fine garden accessories for Campania International. “Purchasers tend to choose pieces that are just too small for their space or they overload their garden with too many pieces,” he says. “In garden statuary the guiding principle usually is that less is more.”
Here are some simple guidelines that will help you choose the perfect piece of statuary for your garden.
Keep It in Context
According to Cilio, the most important consideration to keep in mind when choosing the right piece of statuary is the overall style of your home and garden.
“Whether you have an urban, contemporary or country garden, the statuary you select should be compatible with the style and feeling of your house and garden,” he says. “Most likely, you wouldn’t place a classical statue in a contemporary-style garden. However, classical statuary makes wonderful features for a more traditional home or garden.”
Tres Fromme, planning and design specialist of Mesa Design Group in Dallas, suggests cutting a piece of statuary out of cardboard and placing it in different locations throughout your garden. “This will help you get a feel for where the piece looks its best,” says Fromme. “It will also give you some time to think about why you want to add an ornament to your garden setting.”
Cilio suggests thinking about your garden as a blank wall in your living room. Before choosing what to hang on your living room wall, you take cues from the style of the room. Think of your garden in that context, from the size of the space to the arrangement of trees, shrubs and flowers. These will be the cues used to choose and place your garden statuary.
Keep It Simple
Fromme finds that gardeners trying to introduce too many pieces into their garden create too many distractions for the eye to absorb or enjoy. The garden becomes complicated and cluttered.
“Under the less is more principle,” advises Fromme, “one well-suited piece will create a presence and a focal point, introducing harmony rather than chaos into the garden.”
The less is more principle does not mean you are limited to symmetrical arrangements of statuary in your garden. Multiple pieces and styles can work comfortably together if they are not part of the same compositional frame.
According to renowned garden designer, Jon Carloftis, each part of your garden may have a different mood or feeling and can provide an opportunity to incorporate different types of garden sculpture. Such pieces create interest year round and serve to animate and personalize a space; a strong design element can even inspire the theme for the plantings.
“For example, the right type of statuary can look equally well in bold foliage such as elephant ears or hosta,” says Carloftis. “A shady naturalistic area may be the perfect spot for a small animal figure or bench.”
“I like to incorporate small cast stone pigs into my vegetable garden to give that particular area a sense of whimsy,” adds Carloftis.
Statuary need not be placed front and center and often should not be. Nestled in among the plantings, they do not distract from the overall composition. However, discovering such pieces as one strolls in the garden brings a wonderful element of surprise and magic to the garden.
Create a Frame
Just like a picture on your wall, garden statuary looks best with some kind of frame. A background of traditional clipped box, yew or a mixed border of grasses frames your statuary in the landscape. A stone wall or trellis covered with roses or even a simple wooden fence is all you need.
Personally, Cilio prefers the simplicity and versatility of garden containers such as jars and vases, but believes following the simple guidelines of style, color and proportion will lead you to a choice of statuary that will enliven your garden without overpowering it.
To view Campania’s wide selection of cast stone garden statuary, visit www.campaniainternational.com.
Courtesy of ARAcontent
----------
Simple Secrets for Selecting Outdoor Statuary
(ARA) - You’re not alone if you find that the piece of garden statuary that looked so elegant at the garden center just doesn’t seem to fit your garden back home.
A common mistake gardeners make when buying a piece of garden statuary is one of size and quantity, according to Peter C. Cilio, creative director of fine garden accessories for Campania International. “Purchasers tend to choose pieces that are just too small for their space or they overload their garden with too many pieces,” he says. “In garden statuary the guiding principle usually is that less is more.”
Here are some simple guidelines that will help you choose the perfect piece of statuary for your garden.
Keep It in Context
According to Cilio, the most important consideration to keep in mind when choosing the right piece of statuary is the overall style of your home and garden.
“Whether you have an urban, contemporary or country garden, the statuary you select should be compatible with the style and feeling of your house and garden,” he says. “Most likely, you wouldn’t place a classical statue in a contemporary-style garden. However, classical statuary makes wonderful features for a more traditional home or garden.”
Tres Fromme, planning and design specialist of Mesa Design Group in Dallas, suggests cutting a piece of statuary out of cardboard and placing it in different locations throughout your garden. “This will help you get a feel for where the piece looks its best,” says Fromme. “It will also give you some time to think about why you want to add an ornament to your garden setting.”
Cilio suggests thinking about your garden as a blank wall in your living room. Before choosing what to hang on your living room wall, you take cues from the style of the room. Think of your garden in that context, from the size of the space to the arrangement of trees, shrubs and flowers. These will be the cues used to choose and place your garden statuary.
Keep It Simple
Fromme finds that gardeners trying to introduce too many pieces into their garden create too many distractions for the eye to absorb or enjoy. The garden becomes complicated and cluttered.
“Under the less is more principle,” advises Fromme, “one well-suited piece will create a presence and a focal point, introducing harmony rather than chaos into the garden.”
The less is more principle does not mean you are limited to symmetrical arrangements of statuary in your garden. Multiple pieces and styles can work comfortably together if they are not part of the same compositional frame.
According to renowned garden designer, Jon Carloftis, each part of your garden may have a different mood or feeling and can provide an opportunity to incorporate different types of garden sculpture. Such pieces create interest year round and serve to animate and personalize a space; a strong design element can even inspire the theme for the plantings.
“For example, the right type of statuary can look equally well in bold foliage such as elephant ears or hosta,” says Carloftis. “A shady naturalistic area may be the perfect spot for a small animal figure or bench.”
“I like to incorporate small cast stone pigs into my vegetable garden to give that particular area a sense of whimsy,” adds Carloftis.
Statuary need not be placed front and center and often should not be. Nestled in among the plantings, they do not distract from the overall composition. However, discovering such pieces as one strolls in the garden brings a wonderful element of surprise and magic to the garden.
Create a Frame
Just like a picture on your wall, garden statuary looks best with some kind of frame. A background of traditional clipped box, yew or a mixed border of grasses frames your statuary in the landscape. A stone wall or trellis covered with roses or even a simple wooden fence is all you need.
Personally, Cilio prefers the simplicity and versatility of garden containers such as jars and vases, but believes following the simple guidelines of style, color and proportion will lead you to a choice of statuary that will enliven your garden without overpowering it.
To view Campania’s wide selection of cast stone garden statuary, visit www.campaniainternational.com.
Courtesy of ARAcontent
Thursday, March 22, 2007
Pot and Planter
With Spring arriving, it's an optimal time to get to know the outdoors again. For gardeners this is the time to revive that garden or lawn that has sat unattended for a few months. This article from ARA helps us get started by examining how we can configure our gardens and lawns and show off our creative abilities.
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How to Choose a Pot and Planter
(ARA) - There are signs all around us that spring will soon be here. The song birds are returning, buds are starting to appear on the trees, and the sales ads at all the garden centers and home improvement stores are filled with pictures of lush, healthy plants in pots and planters.
But don't be tempted to run out and start stocking up just yet. Those pots and planters may look great, but before you buy, make sure you know what they're made of and if they'll work well for you. Plant containers are made from all sorts of materials, from the inexpensive plastic pots to the ceramic and fiberglass resin planters.
Because they are the most readily available and least expensive, plastic and clay are the two most popular options. Drainage is very important for all plants to prevent root rot so make sure that whatever container you purchase there is a drain hole in the bottom of the pot or a way to drill a hole.
* Plastic pots
Plastic is by far the most popular material used in plant containers. It can easily be molded into all shapes and sizes, and comes in colors as varied as the rainbow.
* Terra cotta pots
The classic Terra cotta, or clay pots are another popular option. You'll find them in all shapes and designs at your local gardening store. They are usually red, but can be painted any color or add your own masterpiece to the pot.
Terra cotta has two (rustic) looks.
One: You leave them alone and let them age. The salts and alkali will stain the outside of the pots. Moss and mold will grow on the outside of the pots. The life of the pot will be short -- about 3 to 4 years before they breakdown and crumble.
Two: To maintain the natural clean look of terra cotta without adding a glaze spray the terra cotta pot with a sealant such as Spray N' Seal a pottery sealer. The sealant waterproofs the clay to help prevent the alkali and salts from accumulating and prevents the moss and mold from growing on the pots. By sealing your terra cotta pot it strengthens the pottery against chipping and flaking in frosty weather which will extended the life of the pots.
* Foam pots
These containers come in a variety of shapes and they are lightweight which makes them easier to handle. The drawback, however, is that they are not very durable. If knocked around they can crack and brake easily.
* Fiberglass resin urns and planters
Fiberglass containers are lightweight, durable, and resistant to water and extreme weather damage. They come in a variety of colors and designs. They can cost as much or more than ceramic pots, but are extremely durable.
* Ceramic glazed pots
These come in a wide variety of shapes, colors, and styles. You can find something to match just about every decor. The glazing on the outside makes them durable, but over time, you may have problems with chipping off of the glaze by water seeping through the clay from the inside of the pot. To prevent this spray the inside with Spray 'N Seal Pottery Sealer before adding soil.
* Wooden barrels and planter boxes
They come as the traditional half whisky barrel or the red wood or cedar wooden barrel and planter box made to be planters, and add the rustic look of wood to your garden.. They are heavy and the bottoms rot out after a few years. By giving them a lift it will extend the life of the planters.
Give Your Pots a Lift
It doesn't matter if your plant is in a $5 plastic container or a $100 ceramic pot. If you're not careful both will stain your deck, carpets and wooden floors. Prevent this from happening by giving your pots a lift. Use a product like The Down Under Plant Stand to raise the pot and saucer off the decks and floors. This allows air to circulate under the pot and tray to evaporate the excess water and condensation which causes the damage. Also consider placing the plant stand not just under the saucer but in the saucer to raise the pot out of the water that accumulates in the saucer. This will allow good drainage of your pots which your plants will love.
The Down Under Plant Stand uses four plastic arms to lift the pot off the floor, promoting air flow and proper drainage that protects the pot and plant. The stand can be adjusted to fit virtually any size pot by simply trimming off the excess length on each support arm so it hides under the pot. No need to worry how much your pot weighs for this floor and deck saving device can support up to 500 pounds.
To learn more about how to protect your pots, plants, decks and floors, or to find a Down Under Plant Stand retailer near you, visit www.theplantstandco.com or call (800) 834-9317.
Courtesy of ARA Content
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How to Choose a Pot and Planter
(ARA) - There are signs all around us that spring will soon be here. The song birds are returning, buds are starting to appear on the trees, and the sales ads at all the garden centers and home improvement stores are filled with pictures of lush, healthy plants in pots and planters.
But don't be tempted to run out and start stocking up just yet. Those pots and planters may look great, but before you buy, make sure you know what they're made of and if they'll work well for you. Plant containers are made from all sorts of materials, from the inexpensive plastic pots to the ceramic and fiberglass resin planters.
Because they are the most readily available and least expensive, plastic and clay are the two most popular options. Drainage is very important for all plants to prevent root rot so make sure that whatever container you purchase there is a drain hole in the bottom of the pot or a way to drill a hole.
* Plastic pots
Plastic is by far the most popular material used in plant containers. It can easily be molded into all shapes and sizes, and comes in colors as varied as the rainbow.
* Terra cotta pots
The classic Terra cotta, or clay pots are another popular option. You'll find them in all shapes and designs at your local gardening store. They are usually red, but can be painted any color or add your own masterpiece to the pot.
Terra cotta has two (rustic) looks.
One: You leave them alone and let them age. The salts and alkali will stain the outside of the pots. Moss and mold will grow on the outside of the pots. The life of the pot will be short -- about 3 to 4 years before they breakdown and crumble.
Two: To maintain the natural clean look of terra cotta without adding a glaze spray the terra cotta pot with a sealant such as Spray N' Seal a pottery sealer. The sealant waterproofs the clay to help prevent the alkali and salts from accumulating and prevents the moss and mold from growing on the pots. By sealing your terra cotta pot it strengthens the pottery against chipping and flaking in frosty weather which will extended the life of the pots.
* Foam pots
These containers come in a variety of shapes and they are lightweight which makes them easier to handle. The drawback, however, is that they are not very durable. If knocked around they can crack and brake easily.
* Fiberglass resin urns and planters
Fiberglass containers are lightweight, durable, and resistant to water and extreme weather damage. They come in a variety of colors and designs. They can cost as much or more than ceramic pots, but are extremely durable.
* Ceramic glazed pots
These come in a wide variety of shapes, colors, and styles. You can find something to match just about every decor. The glazing on the outside makes them durable, but over time, you may have problems with chipping off of the glaze by water seeping through the clay from the inside of the pot. To prevent this spray the inside with Spray 'N Seal Pottery Sealer before adding soil.
* Wooden barrels and planter boxes
They come as the traditional half whisky barrel or the red wood or cedar wooden barrel and planter box made to be planters, and add the rustic look of wood to your garden.. They are heavy and the bottoms rot out after a few years. By giving them a lift it will extend the life of the planters.
Give Your Pots a Lift
It doesn't matter if your plant is in a $5 plastic container or a $100 ceramic pot. If you're not careful both will stain your deck, carpets and wooden floors. Prevent this from happening by giving your pots a lift. Use a product like The Down Under Plant Stand to raise the pot and saucer off the decks and floors. This allows air to circulate under the pot and tray to evaporate the excess water and condensation which causes the damage. Also consider placing the plant stand not just under the saucer but in the saucer to raise the pot out of the water that accumulates in the saucer. This will allow good drainage of your pots which your plants will love.
The Down Under Plant Stand uses four plastic arms to lift the pot off the floor, promoting air flow and proper drainage that protects the pot and plant. The stand can be adjusted to fit virtually any size pot by simply trimming off the excess length on each support arm so it hides under the pot. No need to worry how much your pot weighs for this floor and deck saving device can support up to 500 pounds.
To learn more about how to protect your pots, plants, decks and floors, or to find a Down Under Plant Stand retailer near you, visit www.theplantstandco.com or call (800) 834-9317.
Courtesy of ARA Content
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